Description
Polysorbate 20 (also known as Tween 20) is a non-ionic surfactant, emulsifier, and solubilizer commonly used in cosmetics, personal care, and food products. It helps blend small amounts of oils into water, making it ideal for clear sprays, mists, and toners.
INCI Name: Polysorbate 20
Source: Typically derived from lauric acid (from coconut) and ethoxylated sorbitol
| Application | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Solubilizer | Helps dissolve essential oils or fragrance oils into water for clear products. |
| Emulsifier (light) | Used in low-oil emulsions to keep oil and water blended. |
| Dispersant | Disperses oil droplets evenly to prevent separation or clouding. |
| Stabilizer | Keeps formulations from separating over time. |
Typical DIY Products That Use It
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Face mists / body sprays
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Toners
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Makeup setting sprays
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Hair detangling sprays
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Micellar water
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Perfume sprays
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Bath products (with light oils)
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Usage Guidelines
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0.5% – 5% depending on the formula
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For clear sprays, use a 1:1 to 1:5 ratio of oil to PS20
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Blend oil and Polysorbate 20 together before adding water phase for best clarity
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Polysorbate Comparison Chart
| Property / Use | Polysorbate 20 | Polysorbate 60 | Polysorbate 80 |
|---|---|---|---|
| INCI Name | Polysorbate 20 | Polysorbate 60 | Polysorbate 80 |
| Main Use | Solubilizer for essential oils | Emulsifier for creams/lotions | Solubilizer & emulsifier for heavier oils |
| Oil Type It Handles | Light oils & essential oils | Waxes, stearates, fatty alcohols | Heavier oils (e.g., castor oil) |
| Appearance | Pale yellow to light amber (clear) | Creamy white to yellow paste | Medium to deep amber (more orange-toned) |
| Solubility | Water-soluble | Water-soluble | Water-soluble |
| HLB Value | ~16.7 (high) | ~14.9 | ~15 |
| Best Use In | Mists, sprays, toners | Creams, lotions, body butters | Hair products, bath oils, serums |
| Texture Contribution | None | Adds creaminess & body | Minimal texture, smooth finish |
| Common Pairing | With light fragrance oils | With fatty alcohols or butters | With castor or carrier oils |
| Natural Certification | ❌ Not natural | ❌ Not natural | ❌ Not natural |
The above information is for general research purposes only and is not a representation or warranty of any kind. This material is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. The user of this material is solely responsible for determining fitness for any particular use; requesting and reviewing the applicable Material Safety Data Sheet; and compliance with all applicable laws and regulations. Terms and conditions apply
Sam (verified owner) –
I use this Poly 20 as an emulsifier for essential oils into the water phase and it works perfectly. A small amount goes a long way.
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